THE MOON LAND - LEH
Trip dates 19th April to 26th April 2019
Himalayas ! The more I explore the more I fall in love with these ranges. Himalayas has always surprised me with its bountiful landscapes ranging from grandeous snow clad mountain peaks,tarqouise water lakes in lap of rigid brown rocky mountains, grasslands and valleys blooming with apricot and rehndrons to the cold desert's sand dunes- " The mischievous Himalayas".
This time we were heading towards Ladhak ranges which offers high mountain passes like Khardung la and chang la and bit of Zanskar ranges (extending from Ladhak to Lahual& Spiti) zanskar ranges runs parallel and in between Ladhak ranges in its north and Pirpranjal ranges in its south ,We'll also get glimpse of karakoram ranges near Nubra valley.Most of the karakoram lies in POK and a bit of its beauty graces Nubra valley.
Leh being the most favorite destinations of India doesn't require any introduction the name itself thrills and enhances our excitement to its heights.Once the trip is planned you already start living your dream.Ladhak gives you bit of everything lakes,sand dunes,valleys,sparkling high altitudes and babbling rivers.
In April the only option to reach Leh is by air as the roads remains closed.Leh by air means reaching at the height of 11500ft in meare an hour which certainly triggers the altitude sickness symptoms as air pressure and oxygen levels are low at higher altitudes so one needs to be prepared mentally and acclimatize properly for a day or two.
Acclimatization should be taken seriously else you may land up in big troubles and health issues.
Tips for acclimatization :
1. Keep sipping water and put few garlic cloves in water bottles as garlic helps in maintaining oxygen level in body.
2. Don't indulge in heavy activities like hiking and running,may have leisure walks.
3. Eat judiciously, Take helthy carbs (dates and rasins) and avoid fats and heavy food items as metabolism reduces in higher altitudes because body puts all its efforts in adjusting oxygen levels and blood pressure.Should go for ladhaki local foods or Tibetan menu.Thupka n momos are best options.
3. Take lemon tea,Quwah tea or mint tea as it helps alot in acclimatization.
4.Keep a bottle of camphor handy on feeling breathlessness inhale camphor.Camphor being an instant source of oxygen is your saviour in higher altitudes. (Thanks to an army person who passed on this knowledge to us.)
5.Keep Dimocx tablets (helps in acclimatization)and oxycan for emergency.(Although we didn't used any thanks to the almighty.)
6.Start jogging for minimum 30 minutes and include some cardio exercises in daily routine for atleast 15 days before traveling to Leh, It helps alot.
Wheather and temperature in April:
April is still cold in Ladhakh temperature remains subzero in night and may have snow falls which results further dropping of the mercury.So be prepared and bring proper winter wears.Wheather in leh is completely unpredictable,one can have close brush with sunburns and frostbites even in month of April.Days are warm and nights are freezing.
Finally the moment arrived and we boarded for our dream trip to Ladhakh.we were on our most awaited trip.After an hour or so was overwhelmed at the sight of mighty Himalayas,it seem to be haven on earth.... soon the piolt announced "Good morning ladies and gentlemen ,we have reached our destination, we are at the height of 35000fts ,temperature outside is 4 degrees and due to air traffic it will take 20 min to land sorry for the delay and inconvenience caused" .After a short pause pilot added "In the left visitors can see the twin mountains peaks the nun kun ". Every single person started gazing and capturing the mageistic view in cameras.It was serene no words to express the beauty of long stretched snow white ranges we could see two twin peaks tallest among the rest and as we moved further again the announcement was made to see the salt lake which was completely frozen in between the snow peaks it was a jaw dropping view .
On landing in Leh the first thing I experienced was the freezing chill it was 4 degrees and we were coming from 40 degrees so it was quiet obvious to experience that chill,gradually after 20 to 25 minutes while getting the luggage out of the conveyor belt could feel the pressure on my ears, that blocking and unblocking of ears started followed by lips turning blue,could feel the fast heart beats, was confused for what's all happening and here was my saviour camphor,it magically relieved me from all of the uneasiness in seconds.(Chewing gum also helps in the recovering the sense of uncomfort caused by ears blocking- unblocking thing.)
DAY 1
Day 1 was for acclimatization so we enjoyed our time playing cards and dumsheras at hotel and offcourse took all the precautions and measures for acclimatization.
In the evening had a leisure walk in main market of Leh.Was amazed to see the panormic landscapes of snow capped mountains all round the city it just brings the wawoo! every minute.
Main market is ornamented with beautiful ladhaki handicrafts including jewellery,show pieces and apparels.Apart from this you can get all stuffs required for trekking and hiking (on rent as well).
We enjoyed some home made walnut tarte cake ,Few of the bakeries in market offers mouth watering cakes and cookies just can't resist to have them.The rendezvous German bakers and the golden bakers were my favorites.
People of Ladhak are very kind and generous the magic word of ladhaki language is "JULEY !" Used on greeting someone or for extending thanks .
Ladhak region shares its borders with POK and China so few area are highly sensitive and we require to have inner circle permit to visit Nubra valley and Pangong Tso.So on very first day our aim was to get the inner line permit ,however our tour planner helped and got the permit for us.All we were asked to submit were copies of our adhaar cards ,photographs and signatures in a form duelly filled.
By the end of the day was excited for the up coming excursion of the beautiful city.They say sleep is an issue at higher altitudes but was so tired that nothing could stop me and I slept like a rock.
DAY 2
Started our day with lemon lea and butter toast.The plan was to visit near by tourist attractions of Leh.The list included:
HALL OF FAME
GURU PATHER SAHEB
MAGNETIC HILL
ZANSKAR AND INDUS CONFLUENCE
ZORAVER SINGH FORT
SHANTI STUPA
Was pinching myself to realize the fact that yes ! I am in Leh.Photo gallery was already showing the counter at 150 so you can imagine how mad I was getting over the scenic beauty of the place.
We decided to visit Leh palace on the last day of our trip as were tired and were not in state to climb up so high.Somewhere in between 7 to 8 in evening we reached our hotel.Got to meet few tourists who had just returned from pangong tso and tales of their experiences were jolting me for the awaited expedition.
DAY 3
Was wrabling the bollywood track " My dil goes mmmmm mmmm..." ha ha...but at the same time was also scared for my past experiences in higher altitudes of sikkim it was approx 14000ft near Yumtang valley where I had fallen unconscious and today was supposed to drive through the highest motrable pass of the region Khadung La at approx 18000 ft again was recalling the frightening experience I had soon after landing Leh.So in nutshell I started the drive with mixed feelings.
Roads to Khardung La are good with sharp U turns and twists all maintained by BRO.I heartily appriciate and salute BRO for there incredible work.All the sign boards of BRO throughout the journey depicts the bravery and courage of the team.
Our cab driver showed us ice stupa on the way to the pass. Ladhak is basically a desert area and recevies scanty rainfalls so the only source of water is melting snow.Ice stupas which once had studied in schools were seen real for the first time.
Vishal could sense my perplexity as was constantly querying for altitudes how high we have reached? And he smartly kept fooling me saying it's just in between 12000 to 13000fts don't worry long way to go for now enjoy the views and kept me engaged in his talks even just 5 minutes before when I saw the board welcome to kahrdung la I was being told its just 13000ft 😄 but his tricks helped me come over my anxiety and yes! I survived at 18000fts without fainting and without any hindrances of altitude sickness symptoms,a big acheivement at my end.We were there for 15 to 20 minutes. Clicked few pictures and enjoyed being at the top,My 6 years kid was on top of the world as got to play with snow .we were lucky enough to witness snowfall at Khardung La ,Lavit was all fit and fine and never showed a bit of any altitude sickness symptoms, strong boy.
Enjoyed Maggie at the canteen runned by army, we were amazed to see soldiers who were on duty at the pass,life is difficult at higher altitudes even more than what we can imagine.
Soon we started getting down from the pass and were out of mobile networks for coming couple of days.Only local postpaid BSNL sim work here. We were spellbound by the most spectacular views had ever seen.We were travelling to Nubra valley and were completely lost in nature's magical landscapes eventually heard a line from the track being played in our car...
" Safar khubsurat hai manzil se bhi...."
True for this whole journey.
Nubra valley is at confluence of shyok river and siachien river,Where Ladhak is separated by karakoram ranges.In April the valley was blooming with apricot blossoms.Its at 10000fts and has amazing topography. Staying night in nubra helps alot in acclimatization as at low altitude in comparison with Leh.
On approching Nubra almost 20 kms before we had a halt at "Bhag milkha bhag" shooting point.It is a beautiful stretch of long straight road surrounded by mountains offering a spectacular paranormic view.One can enjoy ATV motor rides here.
Our second halt was at diskit where we had lunch and visited Diskit monastery with tallest maietra buddha statue.It offers beautiful views of the valley.
Attractions of Nubra valley-
-Panamik for hot water springs.
-Turtuk the last Indian village shareing borders with Pakistan.
-Diskit monastry with largest mytra bhudhha statue.
- Hunder sand dunes
We stayed in ladhak summer camps of Hundur approximately 1.5 kms from sand dunes.Enjoyed Bactarian camel rides and played on sand dunes.
We also had lesuire trekking exploring hundur village,interacted with local people and kids and spent wonderful evening enjoying the golden dusky sunset.
After sunset temperature dropped tremendously we were shivering of cold soon bonfire was arranged by the camp owner which proved to be a cherry on the cake.
We with our campanions from Banglore at the camp spent our time singing and dancing round the bonfire.After dinner were lost gazing sparkling stars for hours.
Spending night in camp was bit adventurous as night in Nubra was pretty freezing.
DAY 4
We started early for Pangong Tso.Roads followed shyok river all throughout the journey till Pangong tso.Journey is not less than a roller coaster rides.Roads in between are all of rock debris,stones and puddles.
We had a halt while crossing a part of river bed just to capture bit of the scenic beauty in our cameras.It was so peaceful the rhythmic notes of babbling water and tickling breeze, so sanative. Didn't wish to move from there but had to.
In ladhak you can see the prayer flags in white blue yellow red and greens following you everywhere was antonished to see them and equally curious to know more about them.
Soon we saw the siachin warriors boards and could see the huge army encampment .Army slogans like train hard fight easy,sign bords, various battalion like sherpa ,Sikh regiment, egales and noticed a tank climbing uphills,one can feel like entering border areas.We were in Tangste approx 40 km from Pangong Tso at the height of 14000ft.It is last human habitat near Pangong.
Tangste is beautiful village one can find frozen water bodies here even in month of april.We spotted a herd of wild donkey near by a patch of frozen river in the valley got confused them to be horses at first glance.😄
Soon we had the first glimpse of blue hue encircled by brown rigid mountains.Ah! You will forget all the pains of bumpy rides at this moment.Fell for Pangong at its first look.
Temperature was low even in noon with the freezing wind blowing across the lake.Its most beautiful lakes ever seen trust me no camera can do justice capturing its details.Crystal clear water attaining hues form its surroundings.Lake changes its color from blue ,tarqouise, hazy white to brown with changing position of sun all throughout the day.Sunset gives serene visuals at Pangong try not to miss.
Due to some new government policies all the camps near Pangong were demolished temporarily so we had to transfer our bookings to Pangong residency at Tangste and we didn't regret a bit,got sufficient time to explore Tangste.We trekked down the village and enjoyed its beauty ,walked down on frozen river nearby ,over all a wonderful experience.There is a beautiful monastry in Tangste should not be missed if time permits.
One thing was common these days inspite of having tiring bumpy rides,short hikes and treks we never felt tired we were happy there was feeling of deep traqulaity everything seem so balanced may be because we were away from hustles of day to day life or something else..don't know.
DAY 5
We started our journey back to Leh,Planned to visit Tso tak,Chang La,Tishkey monastry,Hemis monastry ,Shy palace and Rancho school on the way.
We were heading towards chang la from Tangste,the valley offered priceless views soon the rocky debris were occupied by small streams slushing on roads and again we were on bumpy rides as we moved further we came across black mountains stripped with white snow beautiful view we could not take our eyes away from mountains not even for a second completely spellbound.
After a while we were near a completely frozen lake called Tso Tak it's a small glacial lake stretches for about 8kms.we saw board detailing ticket prices for boating so it offers boating to tourist may be in months of May or June.
We moved further and started our climb to Chang La,chang means north and La means pass,it at 17688fts and its advisable not to stay long at top due to its altitude and offcourse it has got many avalanche prone areas.
As we were nearing top the mountains were more snowy and the roads had huge snow wall at peripheries it was amazing experience.
The first thing we were amazed to see at top of chang la pass was the worlds highest research station of DRDO,salute to Indian army.
Road at changla is stretched approx for 10 to 15 km which is difficult for climbers as melting snow makes the steep roads more sleepery.We came across a military convey on the way at chang la ,I noticed the diagonally opposite tyers of the trucks were chained and it was to increase the friction while getting down from steep sleepery roads.
After climbing down chang la the roads were smooth n straight as we were on Manali Leh highway .
Our next stopage was at Thiskey monastry the largest monastery of the region.It is located at 11800fts in Indus valley.One can get to see Buddhist art like thangka wall painting, stupas,silver stupas and temples main attraction point is the magnificent statue of Maietrya Buddha covering two floors of the 12 storied building .According to bodhisattva Maietrya Bhuddha is future buddha and successor of Gutam Bhuddha.He will appear in future to enlighten us to the holy path.
In prayer hall got to read few articles explaining meaning of the colors and arrangements of prayer flags and I got answers to my curiosities.Flags are arranged in specific order from blue(sky),white(air),red(Fire),green(water) and yellow(earth).It is believed that the mantra on flags purifies and pass on the blessings to everyone.
Our next halt was at Shey palace it is in ruins these days and is famous for its shykyamuni Buddha statue.
On day 5, I was introduced to a spritual Ladhakh right from Hemis to Rancho school places narrated the stories of unique spirits of resigns and dynasties of ancient Ladhak.It was a concluding day of the tour for me...all these five days I was wondering for mystic feeling and the positive vibes I was getting in here...Himalayas are considered sacred and pure....could believe that yes the prayer flags and the wheels are actually spreading the positive energies enlightening the suroundings of Himalayas ,the place where we connect with our souls and embrace the sprituality in more profound way.
DAY 6
It was last day in Leh for us.we could not visit Tso Mirrori were told that its completely frozen and none of the tourist has reached there this april till date.
So we decided to trek to Leh palace.It is 9 storied building housing picture galleries depicting history of palace and Leh.From top that is from 9th story of the palace one can see the Zanskar ranges stretched in indus valley in south and the Ladhak ranges in the north behind the palace.The panoramic view of ranges will take you to a drift to your memory lane and keeps you recalling your experiences of the places you have been in last three days.we spent almost 3hrs in palace rejoicing our travel experience in Ladhak.
Trip to Ladhak is truely an addiction will surely visit again to experience the sprituality blended with nature's glory.We earned the ever lasting memorable episodes of pristine Ladhakh in our trip.
